Papier Mache Playground Guide

Inspired by a papier mache sand dune creation I learned about on a gerbil website here: Gerbil Playground I took those instructions and made them more pet friendly so that the playground could be used inside of a cage. Small single hide-out dunes will probably fit better into most cage set ups, but they can still be used for out of the cage fun!

An example of a papier mache playground inside of a cage.

List of materials:


Tape (optional)
1 Cardboard sheet
Assorted Small cardboard boxes
Assorted Toilet paper tubes
Several Newspapers (be sure ink is soy/vegetable based)
Blank white printing paper (optional)
Paint (optional) (be sure it is nontoxic)
1-2 cups of sand (playground sand, chinchilla sand or calcium carbonate sand)
1 cup of Baking Flour
1/4 teaspoon of Salt
3 cups of water






1. The first step is to get a base for you playground. If it is going into a cage than be sure to measure everything out first, or you may end up with a playground that doesn't fit!

 

2. Take your assorted cardboard materials and toilet paper tubes and arrange them on your base. 

3. Begin to fill in the empty spaces between and around your base structures with newspaper balls and rolls.

Once complete it should begin to take a basic shape. Remember this is meant to be creative so make it as big as you want and use your imagination:

4. Cover this with a couple of sheets of newspapers to hold everything in place for when you start the actual papier macheing part. You can tape the pieces down if necessary, I usually removed the tape once I started papier macheing.

5. Rip up all of your sheets of newspaper. You can cut them, but ripping them helps them stay down better as the edges are ragged and hold down better.

6. Now is time to make the paste. Take the flour and mix it with one cup of the water in a bowl add the salt in now too. The salt will help prevent mold from forming. In a separate sauce pan boil the remaining two cups of water. Once it is boiled add the water to the flour-water mix and stir. Than add all of the mix back into the saucepan and heat on medium high for 1-2 minutes until the paste has thickened. Let it cool before starting as it will be hot. When ready just dip a piece of newspaper into the paste, strain off the excess and begin to paste it onto the playground.

7. I recommend at least three layers of newspaper. Be sure to let each layer dry before moving on to the next one. The thicker you go the stronger it will be.

8. The last layer (or two) I would use blank printing paper so that the newspaper does not show through afterward.

9. Now after your last layer is dry you can do something to add a little extra. This is optional, but using nontoxic acrylic paint to add some colour to the piece really does help to make it look better.

10. Once the paint is dry (or your last layer is dry)  take your paste out again and begin to cover your piece with it in an even coat. I use a paintbrush sometimes, but using your hands it a lot quicker.

11. Take your piece and put it on top off a plastic bag, because this will get messy. With your piece still wet from that layer of paste you painted on, pour the sand over it. Ensure that the sand is coating everything.

12. Let your masterpiece dry and than add it to your hamster's home or put it in their playpen. Either way your hamster will have a blast!

 

**Caution**

Some people have mentioned that they had mold issues with this, I have yet to have any such issues. Adding salt to the paste mix can help prevent this though.

Getting Bit is Part of Owning a Hamster

In recent discussion on HamsterHideout.com the question was posed whether it was reasonable to assume that getting bit by a hamster was part of what comes with owning a hamster. It was of no surprise that most everyone agreed, myself included, that it is indeed part of what comes with sharing your life with a hamster. Short of leaving a hamster in it's cage 24/7 with no human interaction, you are in the position to be bitten at any time. Any animal with a mouth is capable of biting after all.


It certainly ties in with the idea that hamsters bite a lot more than other small animals. In one way I do agree, hamsters do tend to be quick to use their teeth if ill at ease. On the other hand I would say 99% of any and all bites I have received , have been given due to my own error. Whether I did not let a sleeping hamster lie, I surprised them, my hands smelled of food or a cage territorial hamster felt their home to be invaded. I have yet to have a hamster bite for no reason. Even nibbles are given for the reason of exploration and understanding, and they often do not hurt. Especially as hamsters are seen as a child's pet, the notion that they bite often is only encouraged as young children who do not understand how to respect an animal's personal space and are often handle the hamster more roughly than they should be get bitten and a negative reputation is built with blame placed upon the hamster.


Biting before a hamster has been socialized or 'tamed' is to be expected as you must work diligently to earn your hamster's trust so that they understand that you are a friend and not an enemy. A taming guide can be found here: Dashing Hamster's Taming Guide.


Learning to read a hamster's body language for signs of distress, can go a long way to avoiding a hamster bite and in doing so you will not cross their threshold for stress, making them feel better about you. Not invading their space if they feel protective over it, food dishes or hoards as well as nests seem to be a sensitive spot for some hamster as an example; washing your hands with non-scented soap to get rid of interesting smells that may be mistaken for actual food or even a threat; letting your presence be known before touching your hamster such as talking to them or rustling some bedding and picking them up from where they can see your hands coming; not waking them and just overall respecting them and their space can definitely reduce the risk for bites. I used to consider hamster bites a regular part of keeping them, but as I have learned to read them better I have gotten bitten less and less over the years. Most importantly do not take the bites personally, your hamster isn't after all so why should you? The meaning behind each bite is situational and dependent upon the hamster, biting does not mean that they "hate" you though. Frequent biting experienced while a hamster is in their home may be linked to cage aggression, which is discussed in depth here: Cage Aggression.


So while biting can be made less likely getting bitten is always a possibility. Whether they will be quick to use their teeth in an attempt to solve their issues or if they will prefer to take things in a more mellow manner will depend upon the individual hamster. They have teeth and therefore they can bite and so it should be assumed that bites can happen, this does not mean that they will happen though. Basically be prepared. Despite it all, the bites are not as frequent as some make it out to be and with some thought into your actions around your hamster there is no reason why you cannot enjoy each other's company.

Kaytee Recalls Food Due to Salmonella

Kaytee Recalls Batch of Mouse, Rat and Hamster Food Due to Salmonella

Heads up everyone, while the food isn't really recommended as it doesn't exactly meet a hamster's needs; I thought it best to share anyways. Kaytee has had to recall some of their foods, including:

The recalled products are 3-pound packages with a “best before” date of 31-Mar-2013 K63 (UPC Code 71859 9994); 5-pound packages with a “best before” date of 03-Apr-2012 K61 (UPC Code 71859-00001); and 25-pound bags with “best before” dates of 31-Mar-20-13 (UPC Code 71859 99995) and, for Petco stores only, 30-Mar-2013 (UPC Code 71859 00000).

No other products or product lots are involved in the recall and no human or pet illnesses have been reported, according to Kaytee.

If you are using any of their food be sure to check the date and codes, especially if your in the US and got it form PetCo.

Rest Peacefully Rory

Two years and three days ago I drove over an hour away to adopt two lovely roborovski dwarf hamsters from a girl that got surprised with babies from hamsters that she had received as a present. I remember being surprised at just how small they really were, never having seen robos before. It took me almost 10 minutes to get both of them out of their cage and into the travel cage. They had a long ride to their new home, but settled in well. Rory was always the braver of the two, even though she was quite dependent on Bones. She often didn't mind me handling her for short periods of time and was usually the most cooperative with photo shoots.
Once I found both of them in "hibernation" due to the lack of heat in my room mid-winter. It was the longest amount of time I was ever able to hold them as I warmed them in my hands. Rory came around first, nudging her sister until she woke too.
After having them for about a year I was itching to give these girls a bigger home. They were upgraded to a Detolf cage (a cage built from a detolf shelf from ikea). Rory's favourite pastime (when she could reach it), was hanging upside down from the lid and chewing on the mesh in order to get my attention. Today I found her dead, buried in their aspen. She looked quite peaceful.

Rory and Bones may as well have been attached at the hips. No full memory exists of one without the other. Bones is taking it rather well though. She is eating, drinking and running around just fine and she looks healthy as can be. We are both going to miss Rory, but I am glad that she stuck around as long as she did.










/

Rest In Peace Rory.
Adopted April 23, 2010 -- Passed April 28, 2012

Update on Star Gazing Treatment

I put together an article about 'Star Gazing' in hamsters (found here: Star Gazing) back in December 2011 and I wanted to update on a couple of things in regard to it.

On the forum, 'HamsterHideout' a member under the username of 'Luci' began treatment of her star gazing hamster, Mirabelle, with the drug Trimethoprim Sulfa (mentioned in the original article) and within days reported a noticeable difference in Mirabelle, namely walking normally and capable of better balance. Mirabelle has since passed away, though as far as I know, her death is not believed to be caused from the drug. 

The member, 'missPixy' also mentioned recently that some people have noticed that switching from tap water to bottled water has made a notable difference in the extremity of the symptoms associated with star gazing. I have no evidence to back this up, but it is certainly not something that would be of harm to try.

On a side note: I hope to become more active now that school is out, I am still working on a nutrition article though it may be awhile. In the meantime any suggestions for any thing that I should cover would not be unwelcome. Happy Hamstering and I hope everyone had a wonderful Hamster Day on April 12!

Don't Forget to Smile

More Pictures can be found here: Photo Gallery

Syrian Hamster Care Sheet

Note: I hope to include a pdf version of this in the future. Due to technical difficulties it will have to wait until future time.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

English Name: Syrian (Also nicknamed the Teddy Bear, Golden, Black Bear, Common, etc.)

Latin Name: Mesocricetus auratus

Lifespan: 2-3 years

Size: 5-7 inches (13 to 18 cm)

Description: Syrians are the most common species of hamster kept as pets and were the first hamsters to be domesticated and introduced into the pet market. Today’s domestic syrians are believed to be descended from a mother and her litter that were taken from Aleppo, Syria on April 12, 1930. Syrians are available in many colours, patterns and even some coat mutations such as short haired, long haired and hairless.

Temperament: Syrians are generally docile and are often recommended for first time owners. Each hamster is different and while one syrian may be bold and friendly another may be shy and easily frightened. Syrians are also loners by nature; they do not live with other hamsters in the wild and only come together to mate and for the female to raise her litter. If kept together Syrians may fight resulting in severe injury or death of one or both hamsters. Living together is also stressful for these hamsters; stress lowers the immune system making them susceptible to illness. At no point should a syrian be housed with another of its species, a different species of hamster or any other small animal.

Housing: Despite their size hamsters need a lot of room. The generally accepted bare minimum now a day is a cage with the floor space of 360 square inches though it is highly recommended that a larger space is given. Many cages actually made for hamsters are far too small for any syrian hamster and often need to be added on to. It is recommended that you look at the following link in regards to Scientific Facts about Hamster Homes.

    There are many different types of cages such as aquariums, bin cages, wire cages, and plastic connectible cages. Any of these types can be great for hamsters as long as they are the right size. Which cage you prefer depends entirely on you. A cage set-up consisting of dozens of Habitrail cages and tubes may be fine for one person, but a chore for someone else who may enjoy a bin cage better.

Substrate and Bedding: Substrate is the stuff that you put on the floor of your cage in order to give your hamster something to walk on, burrow in, hide food in and to soak up any urine. There are many different options to choose from, though not all substrates are safe for hamsters. Wood shavings made from softwood trees such as pine, cedar, and spruce (UK pine) contain toxic aromatic oils called phenols that harm a hamster’s respiratory system and may also cause cancer. Softwood shavings can be kiln dried which removes some of the phenols but not all of them, thus not making kiln dried shavings completely safe. Hardwood shavings such as aspen on the other hand do not contain phenols and so are safe to use. Any scented substrates are also dangerous to hamsters, irritating their sensitive respiratory system, even ‘natural’ scents such as rose or mint. Some other safe options besides aspen shavings are paper-based beddings. Some brands to look out for are Care Fresh, Boxo Bedding, Critter Care, and Yesterdays News Cat Litter. Substrate should be several inches deep, six or so inches is ok, though Syrian hamsters really do benefit having more to burrow in.
    Bedding is what is used in the hamster’s nest. Whatever substrate you are using is fine for bedding but you can also add other materials to make their nest more comfortable. Again not all available bedding is safe. Hamster ‘fluff’ bedding should be avoided, if ingested then it can cause internal blockages and hamsters can get tangled in it causing a limb to lose circulation. Cloth, fleece or other similar materials should also be avoided in case the hamster ingests them unless you are certain that your hamster will not chew any of this. Toilet paper or kleenex makes a great choice for bedding as it’s cheap, comfortable, safe and easy to get.

Supplies: Hamsters need some basic supplies for their home too:
Wheels-- Hamsters need wheels to be able to burn off excess energy. Syrian hamsters can run up to eight or so miles a night as they forage for food in the wild. It is important that the wheel has a solid surface so that the hamster cannot harm it’s feet. A wheel with runged bars can allow great harm to a hamster if they get their foot caught in between the rungs. The wheel should also be at least 8” in diameter so that the hamster has plenty of room to run. Some hamsters may even require a larger size. If their back is arched at all while they are running or they have to hold their head up higher then usual, then the wheel is too small. 
Chew Toys: Hamsters, as rodents have constantly growing incisor teeth. Hamsters trim them by chewing on things. While pet stores do sell wood chews and similar products many do go ignored, often milk bones (intended for dogs) or raw pasta are well received and work well.
Beds-- Hamsters prefer a shelter of some kind to be able to build their nest in. It helps them to feel secure and to reinforce their nest. You can make these at home or buy some from the pet store, the possibilities are endless when it comes to this. Just ensure that it’s big enough for your hamster.
Water Bottles-- Water bottles are made especially to hold water for hamsters. They keep the water clean and contained. A good brand to watch out for is Oasis as they are durable and rarely leak. Be sure to clean out the bottle daily to prevent bacteria from growing, the spout can be cleaned with an (unused) smoke pipe brush. Water bowls can be used instead, but they are not usually recommended as they get dirty easily and if a hamster gets wet from it then they can catch a chill. If they must be used then a small dish such as a tea light holder can be used so that hamsters cannot get soaked by it. Just be sure to clean it daily or twice a day if possible and to keep it elevated so that substrate cannot get into it.
Food dishes-- Food dishes are as simple as a small dish used to hold food. You don’t need one for the staple food if you would rather free feed (sprinkling the food around the cage) however it is easier to monitor if the hamster is still taking its food if you use a dish. There should be a dish used for fresh foods though.
Toys-- Toys are important in a hamsters home as they provide great physical and mental exercise. From tubes, to see-saws, to digging pits, to wherever your imagination can take you. Hamsters are inquisitive creatures and will enjoy exploring all sorts of things. You can make the toys yourself or go check a pet store to see what they have.
Toilets-- Toilets aren’t necessary as part of a hamsters cage but they can help keep things a little cleaner. Syrians will often pick a corner to urinate in, some will also use this corner for feces as well. By putting a toilet in you can encourage your hamster to go in one spot which can then be cleaned out daily. You don’t need a toilet, most hamsters will pick a spot on their own as they get a little older.
Sand Baths-- Sand baths aren’t necessary for syrian hamsters but many Syrian hamsters enjoy being able to dig in the sand. Some may come to use it as a toilet though. Good sand to use includes Chinchilla sand (not dust) though is argued to be dangerous due to the silica content. Those that don’t use Chinchilla sand for this reason will often used Aragonite sand (Calcium carbonate), which is argued by others to be dangerous due to the calcium content in it. Which you use is up to you, further reading should be done so that you have thorough understanding of both sides can make an educated decision.

Cleaning Maintenance: When it comes to hamsters cleaning is not a big chore so long as you keep on top of it. Daily cleaning would include the removal of any left over fresh foods from the previous day, cleaning out of the ‘toilet’ corner and washing of the water bottle or bowl.
How often the cage is cleaned will depend upon the hamster, the substrate and the cage size. An exceptionally large cage will not need to be fully cleaned out as often as a smaller cage for example. Generally a full cage clean out should be done weekly or every other week. The substrate should be dumped out, except for a handful or two; the cage wiped down, the supplies washed and the nesting area cleaned out as well. Once everything is clean and the cage out back together, sprinkle the substrate that was saved prior to cleaning, all around the cage. This will reduce any stress felt by the cleaning of the cage by allowing the scent to remain within the cage, minus the mess. This will also reduce the need felt by the hamster to go over board in marking his home after a cage clean.

Food: The syrian hamster’s diet really isn’t too complicated. Syrian hamsters are mainly grainivorous in the wild though they will also eat greens and insects making them omnivores. Hamsters need a staple diet of either a seed mix or a lab block. Lab blocks are compressed pellets, while seed mixes are made up of various seeds, grains and nuts. Either is fine to use, it depends on your own preference and likely the preference of the individual hamster. In either type of food you are looking for a food with protein of about 17-21% and a fat content of 4-6%. 

Lab blocks are good to use because hamsters are unable to pick through it and eat only their favourite foods, thus they get the complete nutrition provided by the lab block. Not all brands of lab blocks are made equally though, some good brands to look out for include Mazuri and Oxbow. However lab blocks are boring, especially for an animal that is a forager in nature. Seed mixes provide much more variety for a hamster. With seed mixes you need to watch out for mixes that contain to many ‘treats’. Mixes that are overloaded with sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, peanuts and other sweet or fattening food should be avoided. You want a mix that has a good balance of foods. Some good brands are Supreme Pet Foods Hazel Hamsters (called Harry Hamster in some countries) and Carefresh Complete Food for Gerbils & Hamsters (if this brand is used, organic sunflower seeds must be added to the mix; 3-4 daily is a good amount). In order to avoid a hamster from picking out certain foods I would recommend feeding only enough that they can eat in a day or feeding them every other day. They hoard their food so it is very unlikely that they will go hungry. About a tablespoon of food should be enough per day.
    Besides a staple food hamsters will also enjoy many other kinds of foods. Foods such as vegetables fruits, chicken, egg, tofu, etc. are all foods that are enjoyed by hamsters. A complete list can be found on the last page [below]. I would recommend that you try and feed something every day or every other day or so. You shouldn’t just start feeding these foods right away, they should be introduced slowly by starting with some foods a couple times a week and then upping the amounts as you go. Too many fresh foods can upset the stomach, especially if they aren’t used to it so be sure to take things slowly. Also be sure to take out any excess fresh foods after 24 hours so that they don’t rot.
    Pet store bought treats are often quite sweet so they should be kept to a minimum. I wouldn’t feed more than one store bought treat a week, no matter how much your hamster seems to enjoy them or if the package claims that 2-3 a day is just fine.

Obtaining Your Hamster: There are various places from which a hamster can be obtained, they include:
Adoption: Adopting a hamster from a shelter or a rescue has to be the best way of obtaining a hamster and is a worthwhile experience. You never know what poor hamster many need a loving forever home. Most hamsters are given up when children become bored with them or when a hamster is accidentally bought from a pet store, pregnant. They are not there through any fault of their own and deserve a second chance at a forever home.
Quality Breeders and Back Yard Breeders: This is a good choice to get a young and healthy hamster. You may even get a nice choice of colours and the hamster should be well tamed too. Be sure to do your research about the breeder of your choice and to ask lots of questions. Most breeders are not breeding for the betterment of the species but to earn some money or for various other reasons. These breeders are often called ‘back yard breeders’. If the breeder does not seem knowledgeable then it is best to move on and not support their bad practices.
Classifieds: Looking in the classified section of your local newspaper or on online ad websites are a good way to find hamsters in need of homes. Many people attempt t rehome unwanted hamsters themselves rather then bringing their hamster to a shelter, these hamsters need homes too. Keep in mind that some are simply breeders that are advertising.
Other: Getting a hamster from a friend, neighbour or family member that no longer wants their hamster is another option, though tends to be more an opportunity rather than a choice.
Pet Stores: Not all pet stores are bad, though you will never really know what you are getting. Most pet store hamsters have poor genetics due to over breeding, inbreeding and from suppliers not paying attention to genetics. If you can find a store with good conditions then it could be all right. Pet stores should be a last resort. Purchasing from pet stores often support pet mills or back yard breeders.

What to Look For: When selecting your hamster there are a few things to look for to ensure that you're getting a healthy one. A healthy hamster:

• is inquisitive and alert
• has bright clear eyes
• the nose should have no discharge
• the fur is full and well groomed
• the limbs aren’t swollen nor is the hamster limping
• there are no lumps, scabs or red and irritated skin.

If you decide upon an unhealthy looking Syrian hamster, keep in mind that you may have to visit the vet soon after acquiring your hamster. Before selecting your hamster be sure to watch for a bit to be sure that your soon-to-be hamster seems healthy.

Bringing Your Hamster Home: Wherever you are getting your hamster, you are likely going to need to travel to get them. Make sure that you have some sort of travel cage for the way home, holding them in your hands is not a good idea. They will be frightened and they may not trust humans, it's just not a good idea in a vehicle. A cardboard box will work for short trips but anything over 30 minutes and you should bring something that the hamster isn't going to chew through. Most pet stores have a carrying box and some breeders will too, just be sure to find out prior to getting your hamster.    
    Once you have picked out your hamster, ask whoever is helping you to also put in a handful of the substrate and some of the seed mix/lab blocks in the box or cage with your hamster to keep them comfortable and in familiar surroundings. When you get into the car don't talk too loudly, no arguing or loud music. This will only frighten your hamster. If it is a short trip home then don't worry about providing water to your hamster unless it is very hot out, in this case just give them some food high in water content such as cucumber. If possible turn on the A/C if it is hot out or the heat if it is cold. Also if it is hot out, keep the cage out of direct sunlight. If you have a longer trip then be sure to provide some sort of water source such as cucumber. Drive safely but don't dawdle or make any more stops, be sure that picking up the hamster is the last thing you need to do on your excursion.
   When you get your hamster home, the cage should already be set up. Put your hamster in it’s cage right away. Also put in the food and substrate from the travel cage/box into the hamsters new home so that it smells familiar. If the substrate is pine or cedar, don't worry a little bit longer on it to lower stress won't hurt. Now you can enjoy watching your hamster explore it's new home for a few days until socializing begins.

Taming and Socialisation: Hamsters were tamed and domesticated years ago, however they do keep some of their wild instinct and fear of humans. Socializing is about creating a bond of trust between you and your hamster. The key to success is patience. Be sure to wash your hands prior to any handling with non-scented soap so that your hands do not smell like a tasty treat. While some hamsters will warm up quickly, others need some time.

Step 1: When you first get your hamster home, he will be very scared. Do not try to handle your Syrian for 3-4 days. During these few days you can talk to your hamster gently and enjoy watching your hamster play and explore.

Step 2: On the second or third day introduce "scented" tissue. This is toilet paper or kleenex that had your scent on it. Keeping it in your sock, up your sleeve or wherever for a few hours will give the tissue your scent. The hamster will then use it is a nesting material and it will allow your hamster to get used to your scent. Continue with the tissue throughout the taming process, giving some each day

Step 3: After a couple of days of the tissue start trying to hand your hamster some treats. The easiest way to your Syrian’s trust is through their stomach. Your hamster may be scared to have your hand so close, but eventually he or she should be brave or curious enough to take the treat from your fingers. After a couple of days and once he or she is comfortable with this, it's time to move on.

Step 4: Once your hamster is comfortable taking treats from your fingers, then try laying your hand flat on the cage floor with a treat on your hand. Your hamster will eventually get curious and want to check out your hand, though this can take awhile. Your hamster may nibble but this is just them checking you out to see what you are. If your hamster does bite then slowly retreat, tend to the bite and then get right back in there. Your hamster is scared and if you let it know that biting will get rid of you then they will continue to do so. This time try distracting your Syrian by rustling some bedding, making a slight noise or gently blowing in the hams direction if he or she goes to bite again. Continue each day with this step until your Syrian feels more comfortable with it, once your hamster is then move onto the next step.

Step 5: Start with laying your hand on the floor of the cage again and this time try petting your hamster’s back. If he is too uncomfortable with this then try petting them while handing your Syrian a treat. The treat will tempt the hamster to stay while you pet the hamster. Once your hamster is comfortable with this light touch then it is time to continue onto the next step.

Step 6: Lay your hand on the cage floor again and this time when he climbs on, lift your hand a little way off the floor. Continue doing this until you can get your other hand in there and allow him to walk from hand to hand. From this point on you can start to move on to more handling while you continue to slowly build that bond of trust.

    Keep in mind that not all hamsters like to sit in your hands or cuddle. Most of them enjoy being on the go and some will never be happy to play in your hands. Most do enjoy their owners eventually though. It's important to at least get them used to humans in case they require a vet. If they are not used to humans then the vet will have a difficult time checking out the hamster, treatment will be difficult and the whole time the hamster will be stressed.

Grooming: Hamsters are naturally clean animals and will groom themselves much like cats. They do not require bathing, which is actually dangerous and stressful. Their nails may need trimming from time to time however. Besides that long haired Syrian hamsters may need assistance in keeping their long fur ‘tame’. A soft bristled tooth brush to take out any stuck in substrate or to remove any tangles usually works best.

Illness: When hamsters become ill they can go downhill quickly. Throughout your hamster's life you may have to go to a vet so it is best to locate a rodent-experienced vet before you actually need one. Talk to the vet and ask some basic questions in order to gauge their hamster knowledge and ask how much experience they have with hamsters. Not all vets are equal and many don't have a clue about hamsters and only know outdated facts. You may not be able to find a a rodent-experienced vet so you need to find one that is willing to learn how to treat rodents.
It is also best that you start putting money aside right from the start so that if you need a vet later on, you will have to money to give your hamster the care that it deserves. As long as they are kept in a clean cage and are cared for properly they should live in good health.
Here is a list of symptoms that may indicate that your hamster is ill:

• Sleeps more than usual
• Loss of appetite
• No longer grooming him/herself
• Having difficulty moving around
• Loss of fur - Runny nose
• Teary eyes
• Wet bottom
• Hamster droppings should be rod-shaped. (Watery droppings indicate too much fresh foods and dry droppings indicate not enough)

    If your hamster is ill a vet must be sought immediately. In order to help keep your hamster calm if you believe they are ill or hurt be sure to keep their body temperature isn't too cool or too hot. Keep the room as dark as possible to reduce stress, don't keep it pitch black when you need to see what you're doing though. Some people also suggest putting a bit of lavender in the cage as the smell can help sooth their nerves and reduce stress.

    If your hamster is put on antibiotics by your veterinarian be sure to give your hamster about a quarter teaspoon of plain, unsweetened yogurt as it contains beneficial bacteria that helps keep their digestive system balanced, as the antibiotics kill the flora in the hamsters gut as a side effect.

Safe Food List	Safe Food List Continued	Unsafe Food List
Apple (seedless) Acorns Alfalfa Asparagus Baked/Steamed, unseasoned Turkey/Chicken Basil Bean Sprouts Bok Choy Banana Blackberries Blueberries Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Baby Food (no onion, garlic, or preservatives) Buckwheat Bran or Wheat Germ Brown rice (cooked, plain) Cabbage (in small amounts) Cauliflower Celery Chard Chestnuts Chickweed Carrots Corn Chicory Clover Cooked, unseasoned ground beef (lean) Cottage Cheese Cucumbers Crickets (from pet store only) Cereals (low sugar) Cheese Cantaloupe Cherry Dandelion flowers and leaves Dog Biscuits (with no onion/garlic ingredients) Endive Eggs (boiled, scrambled, plain) Flax seeds Grasshoppers (from pet store only) Green Beans	Green Pepper Honey Dew Melon Kale Lentils Lychee Mango Mealworms (from pet store only) Nuts Orange Pepper Oatmeal (cooked or dry; in soy milk or water; not instant) Parsnips Potatoes (cooked) Pasta (cooked, plain) Papaya Peas Peaches (no pit) Pear Plums (no pit) Peanuts (plain) Popcorn (plain) Pumpkin seeds Radicchio Red Pepper Romaine Lettuce Raspberries Sesame seeds Soybeans (roasted, salt-free) Squash Seeds Sunflower Seeds Spinach Squash Sweet Potatoes Swiss chard Sweet Almonds (not bitter) Star Fruit Strawberries Tofu (plain) Toast (whole wheat) Turnip Water Chestnuts Water Cress Yellow Pepper Yogurt (plain) Zucchini	Buttercups (flower) Chocolate (toxic) Onion (possibly toxic in some animals) Garlic (possibly toxic in some animals) Peanut Butter (can get stuck in pouches) Sandwich meats (contain too much salt, high nitrates) Apple Seeds Canned /Processed foods Candy/ Junk Foods Pork Potatoes (raw) Kidney Beans Eggplant Fool’s Parsley Grape Seeds Avocado Raw Rhubarb Tomato leaves Citrus fruits (including orange, tangerine, lemon, lime, grapefruit, etc) Watermelon (high in water content, not dangerous technically) Fruit pits/ most fruit seeds  Iceberg Lettuce Jams/jellies Salt Spices/Seasonings Leeks Scallions Chives Pickles Bitter Almonds (contain cyanide in the peel) Campbell Early grapes & Kyoho grapes (due to high concentration of acidity) Greens from a mustard plant Mustard seeds